Buttercup Squash

There is nothing I love quite so much as an oven-roasted, slightly carmelized and smoky, chestnut flavored, mealy winter squash. Although my favorite is the Japanese Kuri, the Buttercup -- a green turbanish squash -- will do as first fruits.

My favorite method for these orange-fleshed beauties is to hack them in half, roast them for an hour at about 375, then discard the seeds and pulp and get the meat in a bowl. Mash in butter, sour cream if you like -- or even heavy cream, a good grating of nutmeg (or a bit of mace), and about as much maple syrup as you put in butter.

This, to me, is huge comfort food.